By: Julian Collins
As you get ready to make some more DIY gifts for the loved ones in your life sometimes you can't beat a good button up shirt. I know many sewist see a button up and get a bit nervous thinking it will be very difficult but with the right fabric and pattern it can be easy peasy.
Here's What You'll Need
- Simplicity S8753 - ( or another button up pattern that suits your design needs )
- Main fabric (yardage dependent on size i used about 3 yards) - ( I used Telio Bloom Cotton Spandex Sateen Graffiti Ecru/Ink
- Interfacing - ( I used Pellon ShirTailor Firm )
- Thread - both sewing and embroidery thread
- Machine needles
When planning a project sometimes I start with a garment in mind, other times when I see a fabric, I enjoy I grab it with hopes that the project will follow. As a predominant menswear sewist I do a lot of button ups, and I know that many fabrics I use can be used to make nice ones. I chose to go with a cotton spandex sateen graffiti print from Telio fabrics strictly because the print spoke to me. When it arrived, I absolutely fell in love with the weight and feel of the fabric and got even more excited about the project.
Choosing a Pattern
One pattern I turn to time and time again is Simplicity S8753. I love that it has a broad size range (goes up to a chest size 52) and that it has 3 fits classic, modern, and slim-fit. When cutting out my garment I prefer the modern fit and choose the chest size 48 which gives me a nice slim fit but with enough ease to still be comfortable. I determined this by making sure to look at the finished garment measurements.
So, I cut all the pieces needed for view B and C folding back up the pieces for view a for another time. The pattern comes with ⅝ inch seam allowance but on the collar pieces they specify a ⅜ inch seam allowance, but it is marked on the pattern so make sure to pay attention. With this fabric and its spandex content, I preferred using a microtex (sharp) needle instead of a regular sewing needle as I felt it gave a better stitch result without marking up the fabric. Due to the weight of the fabric I made sure to grade my seams especially in junctions where a lot of layers come together such as when attaching the cuffs and the inside collar.
Putting It Together
This shirt comes together really easily when you follow the steps aligned in the pattern. This pattern offers dots aligning the sleeves and the armscye and following those markings help ensure a smooth flat sleeve install. To close up the sleeves and side seams you can do a flat felled seam, but I prefer to do French seams that I then top stitch down.
When making the buttonholes I have found great results by using embroidery thread instead of regular construction thread. It gives me nice smooth results in my machine, I also use some tearaway stabilizer on the back of each buttonhole to help get a crisper result. If you don’t have tear-away on hand I have been known to use a piece of magazine paper.
The Finished Project
I am in love with this shirt! It is a great weight as we head into the cooler months and its bold print will look great with jeans or dressed up for more professional meetings (will be very eye catching in those virtual calls/meetings). Can’t wait to really style this up and enjoy it as we head into the holiday season.