Created by: Tie Dye Diva Patterns
A blind hem is a great skill for any seamstress to have in her repertoire. You never know when you’ll have that special project that needs an invisible hem. Blind hems are perfect on any garment made from medium to lightweight fabric with a 1″ or deeper hem.
Today we will show you how to sew a blind hem by hand as well as on your domestic sewing machine.
- Garment needing a hem. We used the Tie Dye Diva Potato Chip Skirt pattern in Kaufman Corduroy 21 Wale and the Tie Dye Diva Everyday Top pattern in Liberty of London Tana Lawn
- Seam gauge or ruler
- Hand sewing needle or domestic sewing machine with a blind hem function.
Step 1: Press Folded Hem
Prepare garment to the point of sewing the hem. This is just a sample piece of fabric here, but you’ll work on your actual garment. Fold and press the hem as directed in your pattern. I have used a hem folded up 1/2″ then another 1″. This is the narrowest hem that works well with a blind hem.
Step 2: Prepare Hem for Stitching
Baste hem 3/8″ from the upper edge (this measurement may vary depending on your blind hem foot so check your instructions, but somewhere between 3/16″ and 3/8″ is good). It’s OK to use contrasting thread here, you’ll be removing it.
Fold Hem to the right side along basting stitches. Do not iron.
Step 3: Sewing the Blind Hem
Thread your machine with thread that closely matches your fabric (we’re still using contrasting thread for easier visibility for you) and select the blind hem stitch. Refer to your sewing machine manual for help selecting the stitch and proper sewing foot.
When sewing a machine blind hem, most stitches will be sewn into the folded area of the hem while the zig-zag stitch will just barely bite into the hem folded along the basting line.
Here’s what it looks like sewing on my machine. Your Blind hem foot may look different.
Flip the hem back down and press well. Remove your basting stitches.
From the inside of the garment.
Beautifully invisible from the outside.
Now let’s move on to sewing a blind hem by hand. A hand-stitched blind hem is especially helpful on very delicate fabrics. It’s perfect for this light weight Liberty lawn.
Step 1: Press Folded Hem
This step is exactly the same as a machine-stitched blind hem. Prepare garment to the point of sewing the hem (We’re again using a fabric scrap and contrasting thread for easier visibility – you will sew on your finished garment with matching thread.) Fold and iron the hem as directed in your pattern. I have used a hem folded up 1/2″ then another 1″. This is the narrowest hem that works well with a blind hem. Pin the hem in place.
Step 2: Sewing the Blind Hem
Thread your hand sewing needle with a length of all-purpose thread about 18″-24″ in a color closely matching your fabric. Using a single strand of thread, knot one end. Secure the knot inside the top edge fold of your hem.
Here I have unfolded the hem to secure my knot.
Next take a TINY bite of fabric just above the folded hem, this should just be a couple threads of the fabric. I have taken a slightly larger stitch merely for visibility’s sake.
Now, run the needle into the folded edge of the hem for about 3/8″.
Repeat these two steps to complete the hem. Here I have loosened the thread so you can see the flow of stitches.
In matching thread, this hem is simply stunning and invisible.
Give it a nice press to set the stitches and you’re done!