How to Sew a Blind Hem

How to Sew a Blind Hem

Created by: Tie Dye Diva Patterns

A blind hem is a great skill for any seamstress to have in her repertoire. You never know when you’ll have that special project that needs an invisible hem. Blind hems are perfect on any garment made from medium to lightweight fabric with a 1″ or deeper hem.

Today we will show you how to sew a blind hem by hand as well as on your domestic sewing machine.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Materials:
Step 1: Press Folded Hem

Prepare garment to the point of sewing the hem. This is just a sample piece of fabric here, but you’ll work on your actual garment. Fold and press the hem as directed in your pattern. I have used a hem folded up 1/2″ then another 1″. This is the narrowest hem that works well with a blind hem.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Step 2: Prepare Hem for Stitching

Baste hem 3/8″ from the upper edge (this measurement may vary depending on your blind hem foot so check your instructions, but somewhere between 3/16″ and 3/8″ is good). It’s OK to use contrasting thread here, you’ll be removing it.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Fold Hem to the right side along basting stitches. Do not iron.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Blind Hem Hero 1

Step 3: Sewing the Blind Hem

Thread your machine with thread that closely matches your fabric (we’re still using contrasting thread for easier visibility for you) and select the blind hem stitch. Refer to your sewing machine manual for help selecting the stitch and proper sewing foot.

When sewing a machine blind hem, most stitches will be sewn into the folded area of the hem while the zig-zag stitch will just barely bite into the hem folded along the basting line.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Here’s what it looks like sewing on my machine. Your Blind hem foot may look different.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Flip the hem back down and press well. Remove your basting stitches.

Blind Hem Hero 1

From the inside of the garment.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Beautifully invisible from the outside.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Blind Hem Hero 1

Now let’s move on to sewing a blind hem by hand. A hand-stitched blind hem is especially helpful on very delicate fabrics. It’s perfect for this light weight Liberty lawn.

Step 1: Press Folded Hem

This step is exactly the same as a machine-stitched blind hem. Prepare garment to the point of sewing the hem (We’re again using a fabric scrap and contrasting thread for easier visibility – you will sew on your finished garment with matching thread.) Fold and iron the hem as directed in your pattern. I have used a hem folded up 1/2″ then another 1″. This is the narrowest hem that works well with a blind hem. Pin the hem in place.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Step 2: Sewing the Blind Hem

Thread your hand sewing needle with a length of all-purpose thread about 18″-24″ in a color closely matching your fabric. Using a single strand of thread, knot one end. Secure the knot inside the top edge fold of your hem.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Here I have unfolded the hem to secure my knot.

Next take a TINY bite of fabric just above the folded hem, this should just be a couple threads of the fabric. I have taken a slightly larger stitch merely for visibility’s sake.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Now, run the needle into the folded edge of the hem for about 3/8″.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Repeat these two steps to complete the hem. Here I have loosened the thread so you can see the flow of stitches.

Blind Hem Hero 1

In matching thread, this hem is simply stunning and invisible.

Blind Hem Hero 1

Blind Hem Hero 1

Give it a nice press to set the stitches and you’re done!

Blind Hem Hero 1

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