How to Sew an Underlining

How to Sew an Underlining

Created by: Tie Dye Diva Patterns

Today we’re going to share with you a simple lining technique that can be used when sewing lightweight fabrics that are semi-transparent or need a bit of structure. With just a few extra steps, you can sew up those lovely fabrics you’ve been avoiding because they might be “see-through!”

Underlinings are different from traditional linings in that they are considered a part of the main fabric after they are basted together. This makes them considerably easier to add to a pattern that doesn’t call for a lining but your fabric does!

Materials:

Step 1: Preparing Fabric

Pre-shrink and press both of your fabrics. This precaution ensures your fabrics won’t shrink at a different rate and distort your finished garment.

Sew an Underlining

Step 2: Main Fabric

Taking your main fabric, cut out the pattern pieces according to your pattern’s instructions.

Sew an Underlining

Step 3: Lining Fabric

Taking your lining fabric, cut out the same pattern pieces again exactly as you did in Step 2.

Sew an Underlining

Step 4: Pinning

Place each of your corresponding fabric pieces wrong sides together and pin all around.

Sew an Underlining

Step 5: Basting

After looking up the seam allowance given by your pattern, baste your layers together staying within that seam allowance.

Sew an Underlining

Repeat this step for each of your corresponding pieces.

The Daffodil Top pattern allows for a 1/4″ to 1/2” seam allowance throughout, so as long as I baste around each piece using a 1/8”-1/4″ seam allowance, the basting stitches won’t be visible when I sew my garment together.

Step 6: Sew Your Garment

After basting together each of your corresponding pieces, you will treat them as one piece of fabric. Sew your garment according to your pattern’s instructions.

This is the inside of the Daffodil top where you can see the main fabric through the voile lining. You can also see all of my seams because the lining fabric was sewn as part of my main fabric.

Sew an Underlining

We paired this absolutely gorgeous top with Tie Dye Diva's Daffodil Capri Pants pattern in Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen in Blend Blush. This lightweight linen/rayon blend was a dream to work with and made the perfect fabric for these capris.

Sew an Underlining

The color reminds me of strawberry cream frosting and pulls the pink hues from the marble hearts. I think there’s just about every color in those hearts which makes selecting coordinating trim and notions fun!

Sew an Underlining

You cannot see through this top at all thanks to our underlining.

Sew an Underlining

The underlining also offers structure to the elastic gathers and silhouette of the top.

Sew an Underlining

Sew an Underlining

Now you can pore over those semi-transparent fabrics with confidence!

Sew an Underlining

We hope you loved this tutorial! You can see our previous tutorial for the fabric.com blog, showing you how to sew a blind hem, here. We have many more free sewing tutorials on our blog at Tie Dye Diva Patterns and you can find us on Instagram at @tiedyediva. Hope to see you around!

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