By Jana Phipps the Trim Queen
In the Springtime, I love throwing on a lightweight jacket that makes me feel put together when I head to my design studio, out for coffee, or to the farmers market. I had a well-loved jacket I wanted to replace. It was a very easy circular design and I loved how it draped. I figured I could replicate it, and even elevate it with fringe around the collar – I am the Trim Queen after all!
Choosing the Fabric
I needed a non-woven textile that wouldn’t fray when I cut it into strips for fringing. Toray, the manufacturer of Ultrasuede® fabric, introduced Ultrasuede® ST at fabric.com. It was the perfect fit, and would also make the entire project NO-SEW! The new Ultrasuede® ST is now available as a 58-inch wide material, to maximize your yield. As a luxury performance fabric, it offers cleanability, easy care, and long-lasting durability, so it’s worth the investment.
I also learned about the commitment Ultrasuede® brand has to sustainable practices and a recent innovation that allows them to use plant-based material to create their iconic sueded-hand fabric. With so many colors to choose from, I selected one called Arctic because I wanted a neutral shade to go with all my casual denim pieces.
Here's What You'll Need
- 1 ½ yards Ultrasuede ST (58” width)
- Disappearing Ink Marker or Pencil
- Rotary Cutter
- Cutting Mat
- Newsprint or letter size 8 ½” x 11” paper
- Small Detail Scissors (optional, but helpful)
This simple pattern has you fold your fabric into four, mark and cut a large 52” circle in diameter, cut 2 smaller 8” circles for armholes and cut 8” strips to embellish the edges with fringe - voila!
Let's get started!
Cutting the Fabric
Hold your fabric width with a hand at the left and right selvage, and fold in half. Now fold again in length, top to bottom. Your folded fabric will measure approximately 29” W x 27” L.
Lay the fabric on your table with the single fold facing you and the double fold at the top. Place the top of your yardstick at the point where the single fold meets the double fold. Measure 26” across the double fold and mark with disappearing ink or pencil.
Keep the end of the yardstick at the folded point and slide the yardstick over an inch and mark at 26”. Keep sliding the yardstick from the double fold towards the single fold marking 26” length every inch.
Think of it as marking out a segment of round cake from a rectangular sheet cake! When you have finished marking, connect the dots with your marker and cut the fabric with scissors. Go slowly to avoid any slipping of the 4 layers. Open it out, and you’ll have created a circle.
Cutting the Arm Holes
Now take a piece of letter size 8 ½” x 11” paper or newsprint and fold vertically and horizontally into four, just like you did with the fabric.
Take your yardstick (or ruler) and measure from the folded point 4” along the top and slide your ruler every inch and mark 4” until you hit the angled side. Connect the dots and cut, unfolding to an 8” armhole circle.
Fold your large Ultrasuede circle in half. Lay it down to mark out the placement of the arm holes where you will center your 8” circle. Measure 8” in from the fold, and 18” down from the large circle’s edge, meeting the 8” mark. Put the center point of your armhole pattern at this point.
Trace the circle and cut out the two layers with the rotary cutter. Cut slightly outside the line so you won’t have to worry about the ink. Try on the jacket and see where the fabric naturally folds back onto itself creating the waterfall effect. This will be the starting point to make holes for your fringe, mark it.
Mark the opposite side of the collar as finishing point. Take the jacket off and lay it flat. Starting ¼” in from the edge, make a dot every ¾” (about a finger’s width) up around the collar and back down the other side until you meet your mark on the opposite collar. I marked 100 dots!
Fringing Your Jacket
Use the hole punch to cut out each dot, making sure it’s ¼” from the edge. Helpful hint, if the hole punch doesn’t completely punch out the fabric, use your detail scissors to snip the circle.
Take your excess Ultrasuede from the original large circle and cut it into four equal pieces. Cut each section into ⅜” strips using the rotary cutter. You will ultimately trim these strips to 8” lengths.
Cut as many as you have holes in your jacket. Helpful hint: line up the edge of your Utrasuede with the inch measurement on your cutting mat and place your straight edge ⅜” from the edge, end to end and then cut, holding down the straight edge with one hand, and cutting with the other. It’s like cutting pasta!
Place the sueded side of the fabric face up, this will be your collar’s face. Fold the 8” fringe piece in half and push it through the hole, pulling it through the backside.
Create a loop from underneath and feed the “tails” of the fringe through the loop. Pull the tails but be careful not to break the hole. Push the knot up to the edge of the jacket like a necktie knot.
All in all, your personal masterpiece will take about 2 hours to complete. If you want to further level up, pick a contrast color of Ultrasuede and fringe with a secondary color.
Keep fringing the collar until all the holes are filled.
Enjoy your fringed Ultrasuede® ST Waterfall Jacket!!!