Tips for Sewing with Faux Fur
Are you ready for cool weather sewing like I am? Nothing feels more luxurious and cozy than the feel of fur… faux fur! A fur coat is a glam way to layer for cooler days. This fall’s fashion trends definitely include fur: animal prints, textures, and even beautiful jewel toned colors. Best of all, you can find all of these fur trends here on fabric.com.
I have some tips to share to make your faux fur sewing projects a success. Sewing with faux fur is really so simple if you know the right way to work with it. Don’t fear the fur!
Before you begin, there are a few things to do. First, find the direction of the hairs (or nap) by using your hand to brush the fur along the grain, you want to make sure the fur tips are going in the direction of the natural flow of the fur.
Next, I like to draw an arrow on the knit backing of the faux fur, showing the natural direction the fur is going. This helps when you are getting ready to place and cut out your pattern pieces. You want to make sure your fur is going in the correct direction when cutting your pattern out.
Next, lay out your pattern pieces, and lightly pin them to the wrong side (knit backing of your faux fur).
Using a straight edge, like a ruler, trace your pattern directly onto the wrong side of your fabric. I just used a regular pen. (You won’t be able to see the markings at all when finished). You will need to cut one pattern piece out at a time on a single layer of your faux fur fabric.
Now it’s time to cut! When cutting your fur, make sure to just barely snip through the knit backing layer of your fur. This can take some time, go slow. If you were to cut straight through your fur, you would get a blunt fur edge along your seams, which would change the length of the fur at the seam. Start slowly, and you will find you get a feel for it as you go. (It helps to practice on a scrap piece first!).
As you cut, you will notice the different directions of the fur as you cut through the different angles of your pattern. Here’s an example of some of my pieces while cutting.
Once you have all your pattern pieces cut out, it’s time to pin. I recommend using Wonder Clips to pin your two pieces together. They do a really good job of securing the pieces, and keeping the fur from popping back up. Regular pins slipped out, and didn’t hold the hairs down in the seam. When pinning your fabric and lining pieces together, use your finger as you pin to brush the fur inside the seam. Again, take your time. Use your Wonder Clips to clip your two pieces together as you go. You don’t want any fur coming out of your seam allowance. (When pinning along the bottom hem edge of your projects, it can be tricky getting all the hairs inside the seam because they want to point downwards. Do the best you can, it’s okay if a few pieces are poking out).
As you are sewing your pieces together, use your awl to gently push any fur pieces that have popped out of the seam edge back into the seam.
When sewing two pieces of fur together, use your fingers and your awl to gently push the hairs inside the seam as you again clip them together with your Wonder Clips.
I also found it helpful to use my awl to gently pull out any pieces of hair that may have gotten caught in the stitching after sewing two pieces together. (Especially in that hem edge I talked about earlier). This will help give your coat a really beautiful, full look around the seams and hem when finished.
When prepping your sleeves, make sure to gently push the fur down with your finger as you sew in your ease stitches as shown below:
That’s all there is to it. With these simple tips, you can sew your very own gorgeous faux fur coat. Stay warm and happy sewing!